The Cellar Door Manager at Kay Brothers suggested we contacted Dianna Genders from Genders Wines to organise a tasting – only available by appointment here: http://www.genderswines.com.au/home
It is a solo operation since Dianna took it over from her father in 2008 and rumor has it that she has five tractors because she can’t change the implements on each one herself. But there is no lack of skill or passion in her wine making. Overseeing 27 acres of grapes she makes wine in much of the original equipment that her father installed in a low interventionist style. Pulling up to the winery and parking in front of the 100-year-old quince tree Dianna met us and ushered us into the “tasting” shed which was an eclectic collection of barrels, wine boxes, antique furniture and pictures representing some of Genders past.
Dianna is a ball of energy and during the tasting shared with us stories of her and the wineries past in context with the region. Her skill as a winemaker became apparent as we tried the wine and her quirky stories provided a refreshing back drop to put to the wine journey in context.
She had two wines on tasting both of which she only releases when she believes they are worth drinking although both will reward medium to long-term cellaring.
The first wine was the 2008 Shiraz Grenache named “Keith” after her Father. 82% Shiraz and 18% Grenache it is a wine of great concentration with richness from the Shiraz and spice from the Grenache. The tannins were firm but in balance with the fruit and the length was very long. I was very impressed with this wine and blown away that a seven-year old wine could still be looking so fresh, which is testament to the quality of fruit and wine making skill. This is highly recommended although I would put it down for another 5 years it has the potential to go a lot longer.
The second wine the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon named “Duncan” after her brother. It comes from vines planted in 1968 from plantings obtained by Duncan near the Kay’s Amerty vineyard – much to the dislike of Keith. The vines are showing their age and need constant attention, including vitamins and a yearly glass of orange juice, but I consider it is well worth it to obtain that level of concentration in the glass. For me it was showing classic cassis (blackcurrant), great mid palette fruit and long dry tannins. It was the best Cabernet Sauvignon that I tried in the McLaren Vale and for me it’s stylistically similar to the Penfolds Bin 707 ($285) at a fraction of the price. If you are in the McLaren Vale this is a must try.
Both wines are good value considering their concentration, structure and aging potential with the Shiraz Grenache going for $55 and the Cabernet Sauvignon a steal at $50.
We will remember this winery not only for the wine but also the quinces we collected (with Dianna’s approval) that poached up beautifully with a little lemon and sugar.
And in the meantime…enjoy some good wine.